The art of perfumery : and the methods of obtaining odours of plants; with instructions for the manufacture of ... dentifrices, pomatums, cosmetiques, perfumed soap, etc / by G.W. Septimus Piesse.

  • George William Septimus Piesse
Date:
1855
Catalogue details

Licence: Public Domain Mark

Credit: The art of perfumery : and the methods of obtaining odours of plants; with instructions for the manufacture of ... dentifrices, pomatums, cosmetiques, perfumed soap, etc / by G.W. Septimus Piesse. Source: Wellcome Collection.

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    The plant is the Yasniyn of the Arabs, from which our name is derived. In the perfumer’s laboratory, the method of obtain- ing tbe odour is by absorption, or, as the French term it, enjleurage ; that is, by spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray, and sticking the fresh-gathered flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or so, and repeating the operation with fresh flowers—the grease absorbs the odour. Finally, the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate, melted at as low a temperature as possible, and strained. Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in the same way. Layers of cotton wool, previously steeped in oil of ben (ob- tained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the Moringa oleifera^, are covered with jasmine flowers, which is repeated several times ; finally, the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use, are squeezed under a press. The jasmine oil thus produced is the Huile antique au jasmin of the French houses. The “ extract of jasmine ” is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the jasmine pomade or oil, and al- lowing them to remain together for a foidnight at a summer heat. The best quality extract requires two pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit. The same can be done with the oil of jasmine. If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine previously to being ])ut into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be shaken well together every two or more hours.
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