In the land of the lion and sun, or : Modern Persia : being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881 / by C.J. Wills.

  • Charles James Wills
Date:
1891
Catalogue details

Licence: Public Domain Mark

Credit: In the land of the lion and sun, or : Modern Persia : being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881 / by C.J. Wills. Source: Wellcome Collection.

    41/520 (page 15)
    KUSSIAN HOTEL—PERSIAN CONSUL. possessing appearance, in a stylish uniform, the embroidered shoulder-straps of which were decorated by lightning-flashes. I was somewhat surprised to hear that this was a signalling- clerk of the Russian department. In Russia every officer, however small, has his uniform, which is cheap, and stylish wear. I, being very young, perhaps felt a little jealous ; but the Colonel assured me that, as uniform was always typical, mine would probably have silver leeches running up the red stripe of my trousers, and a gilt mustard- plaister in miniature on the collar. This contented me, and reconciled me to my position as “ a plain-clothes officer.” The chief of the telegraph, too, called, and we called on him ; many cigarettes were smoked, and much very hot tea in tumblers drunk. We went also to see the Persian consul, who was very ; civil, and apparently a very intelligent man; he gave us coffee in the Persian manner. Small silver filagree cup-holders, the size of egg-cups, were handed round on a tray ; and placed in each was a smaller vessel of china, holding about a liqueur- glassful of strong sweet black coffee, flavoured with cloves. It j was not bad. ^ When the cups were emptied two servants advanced, one I bearing the tray, the other taking with both hands the empty coffee-cups and holders, and placing them upon the tray, i Then came the water-pipe or kalian; three of these were ' brought in. My first inhalation provided me with a mouthful of peculiarly filthy-tasting water (I learnt afterwards that the water from the kalian is commonly used in Persia as an emetic); having, with some difficulty, got rid of this, I com- menced to smoke, and to do as I had seen our host do, eject ; huge clouds from my nostrils. But I perceived that the other j kalians were gone j I asked the Colonel if there were any I etiquette as to sending the pipe away. He said— I ‘‘ Oh, no ] our host is an old friend. Smoke as long as it i gives you pleasure.” I The consul asked me how I liked the Persian pipe. I eagerly replied that I had never smoked anything so mild and so delicious. He was delighted, but seemed surprised at my calling it mild. The old gentleman spoke French, and said, “ Da tout —^'m-fort.”