Hints and suggestions on school architecture and hygiene : with plans and illustrations for the use of school trustees in Ontario / by J. George Hodgins.
- J. George Hodgins
- Date:
- 1886
Licence: Public Domain Mark
Credit: Hints and suggestions on school architecture and hygiene : with plans and illustrations for the use of school trustees in Ontario / by J. George Hodgins. Source: Wellcome Collection.
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![aceroides), a nearly allied species, is a favourite shade tree in the Western States, and grows well in the middle latitudes of the Atlantic States.” 74. The shrubs suggested in the U nited States book on School Archi¬ tecture are the Missouri currant, Barberry, Weigelia, Cornel, Laurel, Lilac, Roses (white, yellow, and red), Viburnum or Guelder rose, California privet, Forsythia, Spiraea, Tartarean honeysuckle, Dogwood, Deutzia. To these I add the following, which will grow freely in any part of Ontario, viz. :—Syringa, Yellow flowering currant, Hydrangea, Snowherry, Ash- berry, etc. Of climbing shrubs I may mention the Virginia Creeper, Clematis, Bignonia radicans Birthwort, Roses, etc. 75. The Wisconsin State Superintendent of Schools adds :— “ 1. Damp spots may be improved by covering them with clusters of the beautiful pyrus japonica, and porches may be ornamented by climbing vines, such as ivy (English, German, or the small leaved varieties), woodbine or wistaria, roses and honeysuckles [Virginia creeper, trumpet flower, clematis, etc.]: and if any one will take the trouble to sow the seeds in spring, the red and white cypress vines, the fragrant jessamine, morning glories, and the purple and white Japanese clematis, may be added. “ 2. It is best to plant several varieties of shrubs together in clumps. The dark ever¬ greens or the holly and laurel then set off the brighter kinds, and the mutual protection which they afford each other against the winds helps the growth of all.” 76. Dr. F. B. Hough, Chief of the Forestry division of the United 'States Department of Agriculture, in his letter, quoted above, makes the following useful suggestions :— “1. To secure success trees should be selected from nursery plantations or from those that have sprung up in open places, such as the seedling trees along fences, so that that there may be an abundance of the small fibrous roots. Without this precaution they will be very liable to fail. It should be further borne in mind, that if the roots are much exposed to the sun or to a cold or drying wind their vitality may be soon lost. Great care should be taken, if they are brought from an adjoining place and planted immediately, to retain as much soil among them as possible, and to prefer a damp and •cloudy day. By placing the roots of the trees as soon as they are drawn from the ground upon a coarse strong sheet of canvas, and binding this around them, this object may be best secured. Straw or moss, a little dampened, will serve this purpose very well, and sometimes the trees may be set in a box or barrel with some of the better soil in which they grew, for their removal. Sometimes trees can be removed in winter with <rreat advantage by digging a trench around them in the fall and allowing the earth to freeze, so that a disk, including the tree and its roots, may be removed entire. . . . The ends of broken roots should be cut off smooth before the tree is planted. “ 2. The holes for the trees should be always made before the trees are brought on the ground. They should be somewhat larger and deeper than those needed in common planting on private lands, because it is desirable to give the trees the best possible opportunity at the start. The surface soil being generally the best, should be thrown up on one side, and the poorer soil from below on the other. In filling in, the better soil should be returned first, so as to be nearer the roots. In hard clayey soils great advantage is gained by digging the holes in the fall, so that the earth may be exposed](https://iiif.wellcomecollection.org/image/b30480449_0044.jp2/full/800%2C/0/default.jpg)
